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This procedure takes around 4 hours to do. and a little bit less to reverse, in
total 6-8 hours.
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Quick Synopsis
Before you begin remember to disconnect the battery!
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remove gas struts
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take away both trim panels on the side.
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remove right hand seat belt reel cover
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remove seat belt reel (keep it in up right at all times or else lots of things
will fall out of it!)
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remove air intake stuff.
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airbox to turbo hose (on the airbox side)
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breather to airbox hose
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airbox cover
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air filter
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airbox
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adaptor to sidewall hose
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the inlet scoop
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air scoop
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remove the fuel hoses
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return hose, at the fuel presure regulator side
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refuel hose and inlet pipe (there are three hoses connected to it...)
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tank to cross over pipe hose
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remove tank to body setscrew (also holding the earth cable) and then
remove the vacuum gizmo thingy (dont know the name on it... step 7.5)
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remove the fuel tank top board
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remove the tank board to bulkhead bracket
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remove the right hand gas strut to cabin bulkhead bracket
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remove the rear engine bay wall/floor (you might succeed without doing this by
bending, but beware...)
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remove plus cable to start motor
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remove the engine bay sidewall
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lift the tank
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The removal procedure can be done within 4 hours of work if doing it right and
having a car hoist to easily work underneath. It will be very difficult and
risky trying to drain the fuel tanks with just a car jack. Putting it back will
take around two hours.
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First of all you need to drain the tanks, but to eliminate many times of
hoisting the car start with 6a. Hoist the car and fix a hose and a steel pipe
with the inner diameter about the same as the hose to fuel pump. Put a bucket
underneath and jam the hose to the fuel pump. insert your drain hose into fuel
pump hose and drain into a can.
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Beware when draining the cross over pipe as it contains quite a lot of fuel.
Don't try to just pull the hose of as you will have two streams of fuel coming
out having more preassure /speed than expected. Just drain it slowly by just
removing it a little bit and then pushing it sideways letting it drip dry. To
speed things up you can insert a screw driver or similar if it doesn't have any
sharp edges.
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As you are now probably already underneath the car go on with procedures 6b and
7 (tank to body set screw).
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Then lower the car and go for 1 to 5h.
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The fuel tank top board is mounted wheel housing with two bolts and at the
bulkhead. Luckily the nuts holding the wheel housing bolts are welded to the
plate mounted at the backside of the top board, this means you only need to be
at one side. This also counts for the bulkhead bolts who are welded on a steel
strip and putten through the bulkhead from the drivers side.
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Normally you do not have to remove the drivers seat and back panel infront of
the bulkhead to remove the tank, the picture is just for giving you an idea how
the bolts are mounted at the other side.
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7 to 11 is quite straight forward...
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12 is a bit more tricky though. After removing 10 by the 3 bolts to the left
and right side of it, you start with lifting up the right hand side a bit first
then you turn it sideways to the left a bit so it will go free from the left
hand gas strut bracket. Then slowly lift the front side (the bulkhead side)
slowly uppwards to release it. The problems you may encounter is that some POs
sometimes use some silicon addeshive which makes it stick quite a lot to the
body. Beware to use to much force. When sliding it over the engine you shouldnt
need to use to much force either. Ok its a bit jammed but if its to tight you
arent doing it right.
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15, the final lift. This one is very tricky. First you will have to lift the
front part, then you need to turn the tank towards the engine and slightly
backwards while lifting it. Beware of your side window as you might hit it when
removing and mounting the tank. put a bit of cloth at that side of the tank to
protect it should it hit the window. As this lift is quite technical, I have
created a simulation using two different formats to make you get the basic idea
of it all.
Tank removal simulation: remtank.avi (502 KB)
Tank removal simulation: remtank.mov (1,237
KB)
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To get things back again, simply reverse procedures. and final picture:
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Beware! The sucker who fixed my fuel tank, and in the end made me having to get
it out a second time, had used some silicon sealing to seal the fuel meter.
This ended up both pressing silicon into the tank when tightening the screws
who also pressed round parts into it as they had silicon on their tips. This
repair did cost me more than three towings,one big hot water flush through the
tanks, and more than 20 hours in the garage.
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Have fun!
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